Skincare, Cosmetics & Dermatology Glossary

Multilingual reference for cosmetic ingredients, dermatological conditions, formulation terminology, and regulatory concepts with context, usage examples, and market-specific translations

Beyond Simple Translation: Cosmetics Safety Assessment Terminology

Understanding regulatory documentation requires more than dictionary lookups. When “emollient” appears in a safety assessment versus a marketing claim, the context shapes regulatory interpretation. When clinical corneometry substantiates “hydration” versus consumer self-assessment, the claim tier changes. This dermocosmetics terminology glossary maps those distinctions entry by entry.

How to Use This Glossary

Each entry includes:

Multilingual cosmetic ingredient nomenclature for major cosmetics and personal care markets (EU, US, China, Japan, Korea)
Context-specific usage examples: how terms appear in a Product Information File (PIF), claims, ingredient lists, labels, and safety assessments
Regulatory references linking to applicable articles and Annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, plus market-specific cosmetics regulations
Related terms for comprehensive understanding of terminology relationships

Active Ingredients

Cosmetically active substances including humectants such as hyaluronic acid, emollients, antioxidants, exfoliants, and anti-aging actives, each with functional descriptions and regulatory status.

Dermatological Conditions

Skin conditions, concerns, and characteristics referenced in cosmetics claims and substantiation, from clinical terminology to consumer-facing descriptions of dryness, sensitivity, and fine lines.

Formulation Types

Product forms, textures, delivery systems, and application methods with technical descriptions and category classifications.

Manufacturing Processes

Production methods, quality control procedures, shelf life determination, and GMP terminology used in manufacturing documentation and process descriptions.

Regulatory Terms

European Union Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 terminology, CPNP concepts, cosmetic products safety report language used by safety assessors, and compliance classifications.

Skin Anatomy & Physiology

Skin structure, layers, mucous membranes, cellular processes, and biological mechanisms referenced in safety assessments and mechanism of action descriptions.

A

Acne

Dermatological Condition

A chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts, primarily affecting areas with high sebaceous gland density. Results from follicular hyperkeratinization, excess sebum production, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, and inflammation.
Multilingual Equivalents
French (FR)Acné
German (DE)Akne
Spanish (ES)Acné
Italian (IT)Acne
Chinese (ZH)痤疮 (Cuóchuāng)
Japanese (JA)ニキビ (Nikibi) / 痤瘡 (Zasō)
Korean (KO)여드름 (Yeodeureum)
Usage in Regulatory Documentation
PROHIBITED in cosmetics claims: “Treats acne” / “Cures acne” / “Prevents acne breakouts”
Reason: Therapeutic claims trigger drug classification
PERMITTED in cosmetics claims: “Formulated for acne-prone skin” / “Helps control excess oil on acne-prone skin” / “Suitable for use on acne-prone skin”
Reason: Describes skin type compatibility, not treatment of condition
Regulatory Note
Products making acne treatment claims in most jurisdictions are classified as drugs/medicines requiring pharmaceutical regulatory approval. Under European Union cosmetics regulations, products may reference “acne-prone skin” as a skin type but cannot claim to treat the condition itself.
Related terms: Comedone, Sebum, Hair Follicle, Inflammation

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)

Active Ingredient
Alpha hydroxy acids are a group of naturally occurring organic acids including glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid. Used in cosmetics for exfoliation properties, promoting cell turnover by loosening bonds between dead corneocytes in stratum corneum. Provides smoothing, brightening, and texture-improving benefits.
Multilingual Equivalents
French (FR)Acide Alpha-Hydroxylé / AHA
German (DE)Alpha-Hydroxysäure / AHA
Spanish (ES)Ácido Alfa Hidroxi / AHA
Italian (IT)Acido Alfa Idrossido / AHA
Chinese (ZH)α-羟基酸 / 果酸
Japanese (JA)αヒドロキシ酸 / AHA
Korean (KO)알파하이드록시산 / AHA
Usage Examples by Document Type
PIF / Ingredient Lists: Must use specific INCI names (Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid) rather than the collective “AHA” designation
Safety Assessment: “Alpha hydroxy acids at concentrations up to 10% have demonstrated acceptable safety profiles in leave-on formulations when accompanied by sun protection guidance”
Product Claims: “Formulated with AHAs to gently exfoliate and reveal smoother, brighter-looking skin”
Regulatory Considerations
EU: No specific restrictions; follow the general requirement that every finished product be safety assessed before placing on market. Products with >10% AHAs or pH <3.5 should include sun protection warnings.
US FDA: Guidance recommends limiting AHA concentration to ≤10% in consumer products and pH ≥3.5. Professional-use products may exceed these levels.
Labeling: Many markets require or recommend sun protection warnings, plus advice to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.
Related terms: Exfoliation, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)

Antioxidant

Active Ingredient
Substance that inhibits oxidation reactions by neutralizing free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS). In cosmetics, antioxidants serve dual functions: (1) protecting formulation stability by preventing lipid peroxidation and color degradation, and (2) providing skin benefits by reducing oxidative stress. Common cosmetic antioxidants include Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), Vitamin E (Tocopherol), Ferulic Acid, and Resveratrol.
Multilingual Equivalents
French (FR)Antioxydant
German (DE)Antioxidans
Spanish (ES)Antioxidante
Italian (IT)Antiossidante
Chinese (ZH)抗氧化剂 (Kàng yǎnghuà jì)
Japanese (JA)酸化防止剤 (Sanka bōshizai)
Korean (KO)항산화제 (Hangsanhwaje)
Context-Specific Usage
Formulation Context: “Tocopherol (Vitamin E) is included at 0.05% as an antioxidant to prevent oxidative degradation of unsaturated oils”
Claims Context: “Enriched with antioxidants to help protect skin from environmental stressors” / “Antioxidant complex helps defend against fine lines and visible signs of aging”
Mechanism of Action: “Antioxidants neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure, pollution, and metabolic processes, helping to prevent oxidative damage to cellular structures”
Claim Substantiation Requirements
Functional claims (“contains antioxidants”) require only presence of the active ingredient.
Efficacy claims (“protects skin from oxidative stress”) require in vitro or in vivo evidence of antioxidant activity.
Anti-aging claims linked to antioxidant activity require clinical substantiation showing visible improvement in aging markers such as fine lines and elasticity.
Related terms: Free Radical, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Oxidative Stress

C

Ceramide

Active Ingredient
Family of lipid molecules naturally present in the stratum corneum, comprising approximately 50% of intercellular lipid matrix. Ceramides consist of sphingosine base linked to fatty acid via amide bond. Essential for maintaining skin barrier function, water retention, and protection against environmental stressors. Multiple ceramide subtypes exist (Ceramide 1-9, Ceramide AP, NP, EOP, etc.) with distinct structural and functional properties.
Multilingual Equivalents
French (FR)Céramide
German (DE)Ceramid
Spanish (ES)Ceramida
Italian (IT)Ceramide
Chinese (ZH)神经酰胺 (Shénjīng xiān’àn)
Japanese (JA)セラミド (Seramido)
Korean (KO)세라마이드 (Seramaideu)
Usage in Claims and Technical Documentation
Permitted Claims: “Formulated with ceramides and hyaluronic acid to help strengthen skin barrier” / “Ceramide complex helps restore skin’s protective moisture barrier”
Technical Description: “Ceramide NP (formerly Ceramide 3) reinforces intercellular lipid lamellae structure, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by up to 15% as measured by evaporimetry”
INCI Nomenclature
Various ceramide types have specific INCI designations: Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NG, Ceramide NS, Ceramide AS, Ceramide EOS. Always use specific INCI name in regulatory filings rather than generic “ceramide.”
Related terms: Skin Barrier, Lipid, Stratum Corneum, Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

Claim Substantiation

Regulatory Term
Scientific evidence supporting product claims made in cosmetic marketing and labeling. EU Regulation 655/2013 requires substantiation of all cosmetic claims. This means legally compliant, honest, truthful, and fair to consumers. Substantiation level varies by claim type: physiological effects require clinical evidence, sensorial claims require consumer perception studies, and optical effects may rely on instrumental measurements or photographic documentation.
Multilingual Equivalents
French (FR)Justification des Allégations
German (DE)Belegung der Werbeaussagen
Spanish (ES)Justificación de Declaraciones
Italian (IT)Dimostrazione delle Indicazioni
Chinese (ZH)功效宣称证明 (Gōngxiào xuānchēng zhèngmíng)
Evidence Hierarchy
Level 1, Clinical Evidence: Required for physiological claims (e.g. “reduces wrinkle depth by 23%”). Double-blind, placebo-controlled studies with statistical significance (p<0.05).
Level 2, In Vivo Testing: Instrumental measurements (corneometry, chromametry, TEWL) supporting specific performance claims (e.g. “increases hydration for 24 hours”).
Level 3, Consumer Perception: Self-assessment questionnaires supporting sensorial or optical claims (e.g. “skin feels smoother,” “appears more radiant”).
Level 4, In Vitro Evidence: Laboratory testing supporting mechanism of action or ingredient efficacy (e.g. “antioxidant activity demonstrated in DPPH assay”).
Regulatory Requirement
Per EU Regulation 655/2013, Article 20, responsible persons must hold substantiation for all claims at authorities’ disposal. Substantiation sits alongside, but is distinct from, the toxicological risk assessment prepared by safety assessors for the PIF. Failure to provide adequate substantiation upon request can result in product removal from market.
Related cosmetic claim substantiation terms: Efficacy Testing, Clinical Study, Common Criteria

E

Emollient

Active Ingredient / Formulation Component
Substance that softens and smooths the skin by filling interstices in stratum corneum, reducing rough texture, and providing lubrication. Emollients may be occlusive (forming protective barrier to reduce water loss), humectant (attracting water), or a combination of both. Common emollients include plant oils, essential oil derived esters, silicones, and fatty alcohols. Classified by chemical structure and sensory properties (heavy/light, oily/non-oily, greasy/dry-touch).
Multilingual Equivalents
French (FR)Émollient
German (DE)Weichmacher / Emollient
Spanish (ES)Emoliente
Italian (IT)Emolliente
Chinese (ZH)润肤剂 (Rùnfū jì)
Japanese (JA)エモリエント剤 (Emoriiento-zai)
Korean (KO)연화제 (Yeonhwaje)
Usage Context
Technical/PIF Context: “Formulation contains 15% emollient phase comprising Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (8%), Squalane (5%), and Cetyl Alcohol (2%)”
Marketing Claims: “Rich emollient cream deeply nourishes dry skin” / “Lightweight emollients provide lasting softness without greasy residue”
Mechanism Description: “Emollients fill microirregularities in skin surface, creating smooth texture and enhancing light reflection for improved appearance”
Related terms: Humectant, Occlusive, Moisturizer

Epidermis

Skin Anatomy
Outermost layer of skin, composed of stratified squamous epithelium. Consists of five sublayers (from deepest to superficial): stratum basale, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum (palms/soles only), and stratum corneum. Epidermis is avascular (no blood vessels) and receives nutrients via diffusion from dermal capillaries. Primary functions include barrier protection, water retention, immune surveillance, and continuous renewal through keratinocyte differentiation.
Multilingual Equivalents
French (FR)Épiderme
German (DE)Epidermis / Oberhaut
Spanish (ES)Epidermis
Italian (IT)Epidermide
Chinese (ZH)表皮 (Biǎopí)
Japanese (JA)表皮 (Hyōhi)
Korean (KO)표피 (Pyopi)
Context in Safety Assessments and Claims
Safety Context: “Ingredient penetration studies demonstrate retention within epidermis with no dermal absorption, supporting topical safety profile”
Claims Context: “Targets epidermal layers to improve skin texture and tone” / “Works at epidermis level to enhance natural renewal process”
Related terms: Stratum Corneum, Dermis, Keratinocyte, Skin Barrier

Additional Glossary Categories

This is a representative sample. The complete glossary for cosmetics includes 500+ entries across all letters and categories:

Preservatives: Parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, formaldehyde releasers
Surfactants: Anionic, cationic, amphoteric, non-ionic surfactants and their functions
UV Filters: Physical vs chemical filters, approved substances, concentration limits
Colorants: CI number system, permitted colorants per product category
Product Forms: Emulsion types, anhydrous and essential oil based formulations, gels, foams, delivery systems
Testing Methods: Patch testing, HRIPT, ocular and mucous membranes irritation, phototoxicity, stability testing
Quality Control: Microbial limits, heavy metals, impurities, shelf life determination

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Quick Links

Official Regulatory Databases (Free)

1. CosIng – EU Cosmetic Ingredient Database

Link: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
What it contains:
– All cosmetic ingredients approved in the European Union
– INCI names, CAS numbers, EC numbers
– Annex classifications (prohibited, restricted substances)
– Maximum concentrations and usage conditions
– Official EU reference for the Product Information File (PIF) and CPNP submissions

This is THE authoritative source for compliance with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.

2. IECIC – China Cosmetic Ingredient Database

Link: https://www.nifdc.org.cn/iecic/
(Chinese language, use translation)
What it contains:
China’s inventory of existing cosmetic ingredients
Required for NMPA submissions
Chinese nomenclature + INCI cross-reference

3. Japan Standards of Quasi-drug Ingredients

Managed by: MHLW (Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare)
Access through: JETOC or pharmaceutical databases
What it contains:
Approved ingredients for cosmetics vs. quasi-drugs
Japanese nomenclature

4. FDA – US (No Centralized Cosmetic Ingredient Database)

Link: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics
Note: US does NOT have a positive list like the EU. FDA provides:
Prohibited & restricted ingredient lists
Color additives database
Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) substances

Note:

US does NOT have a positive list like the EU. FDA provides: Prohibited & restricted ingredient lists Color additives database Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) substances

Industry Reference Databases (Some Free, Some Paid)

1. Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) – INCI Database

Link: https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/science-safety/inci-names/
What it contains:
– International INCI nomenclature dictionary
– Ingredient functions
– Some resources require PCPC membership

2. INCIDecoder

Link: https://incidecoder.com/
What it contains:
Consumer-friendly ingredient database
INCI names with explanations
Function, safety ratings, sources
Good for translator education (not a regulatory reference)

3. PubChem (NIH)

Link: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
What it contains:
– Chemical structures and properties
– CAS numbers
– Safety data
– Scientific literature references
– Excellent for technical research and risk assessment support

4. SkinSAFE Database

Link: https://www.skinsafeproducts.com/
What it contains:
Ingredient allergen information
Product safety for sensitive skin
Useful for cosmetic products safety documentation

Meet the Expert

Viveta Gene, PhD

Head of Global Localization Solutions and Innovation
Post-doctoral Researcher: Prompt Engineering & LLM Terminology Accuracy
in regulated industries
PhD in Translation and New Technologies | Ionian University Adjunct Professor
GALA (Globalization and Localization Association) Board Member

With over 20 years of experience, with a specialization in regulatory translation for life sciences, Viveta bridges academic research and commercial localization strategy. As author of GALA’s industry-standard Machine Translation Post-Editing Protocol and an active researcher in AI-assisted terminology accuracy, she brings both scholarly rigor and practical expertise to every regulatory submission.

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